Did you ever play with the idea of living in a world, where the clothes you’re wearing and the objects of everyday life have been sourced and produced sustainably with some high-tech method? It’s no secret: the fashion industry is famous for being one of the biggest polluters in the world. With the rapid production and disposal of clothing, the fashion industry has a huge impact on the environment. But imagine this: sometime in the future, your whole closet could be grown out of say, a yeast culture by the methods of biofabrication. Biofabrics could be the answer to fashion’s sustainability woes. These fabrics are not only eco-friendly, but they are also very versatile and can be used to create everything from sportswear to evening gowns. Biofabrics are the textiles of the future: these alternative materials offer many advantages and customization options. The emerging field of research uses biotechnology to make special fabrics by manipulating living cells and organisms, like bacteria or algae.
There are many challenges to overcome before biofabrics can become available for everyone. Still, biofabrication is a sustainable initiative that has the potential to change the way we think about clothing and fashion. The potential benefits of reducing the amount of waste we produce make this research promising and necessary. Here’s the information in a nutshell.
So, what’s biofabrication and how does it work?
Biofabrication is a subclass of biotechnology. It pursues to research, develop and produce materials and structures that have been engineered biologically. It is a field where engineering, biology, medicine, and design intersect.
Scientists use advanced technology and base materials sourced from natural derivates and living organisms to produce biological structures. Sometimes, a special printer deposits biological material layer by layer to get the structure wanted. 3D printing is a common way of producing those materials in a controlled, precise manner.
The materials vary depending on the field of application. Living cells, proteins, growth factors and other biomaterials can be in their composition. Researchers grow living bases like algae, yeast, or bacteria in simple and controlled laboratory environments. Here, growth is ensured by the optimal parameters of temperature, moisture, and nutrition.
What are biofabrics?
For those hearing the word for the first time, here’s a brief definition of biofabrics. The term refers to any material created with the help of biotechnology. The sources of those materials are living organisms or biological derivates. Biofabrics are created by the manipulation of the cells of these living organisms. By using their biological properties, they can make materials for different purposes. Thanks to their special attributes, biofabrics are easy to customize and safe for the environment. They can be designed to carry specific properties for use in many applications. The manipulation of the living cells allows for customizing the fabric to meet specific criteria.
The textile industry uses yarns from fibers created with biotechnology woven into textiles. Researchers and designers can use some of the "grown" materials by tailoring them to fit specific parameters.
The medicine, construction, and engineering industry already use these innovative materials. For the textile industry, their most valuable characteristics are biodegradability and sustainability. Developing these materials can reduce the daily environmental harm of different processes. With time, biofabrics can bring valuable knowledge to building a more sustainable and responsible textile industry.
Textiles of the future - what are they made of?
Many different types of biofabrics are being researched with successful results. Here are a few examples of the most prominent ones.
Seaweed
In this new research field, algae textiles have great potential. The fibers won from seaweed have many advantages. They are grown with almost zero resources. Fertilizers and pesticides are unnecessary for their production. Algae textiles are valued because of their UV-resistant and anti-bacterial properties. Pigments won from the weeds are the perfect natural dye. Those make an excellent alternative to harmful, chemical-based dyes.
Mycelium
The vegetative “network” part of the fungi growing underground is also used in the production of biodegradable fabrics. Those lightweight, biodegradable, and durable materials are completely bio-based. Mycelium leather or mushroom leather is made from those roots. Some mushroom flesh also makes good raw material for garments that imitate split leather. Mycelium leather and mushroom leather can imitate leather perfectly. It’s a sustainable and ethical material that doesn’t require harming the animals or the environment.
Bacteria and yeast cultures
The creation of an exciting kind of biofabric happens by using microorganisms. Researchers provide those microorganisms with an optimal environment to grow certain fibers or proteins. They then harvest the produced materials, followed by the next step of weaving them into a textile. In some cases, those are grown into molds and dried. Biofabrics sourced from bacteria are easy to customize for specific purposes. They have a tremendous potential that is at the beginning of exploration.
Pineapple leaf fibers
Made out of the leaves of the pineapple plant, pineapple leaf fiber is a sustainable material. The first step of the production process is extracting the fibers from the leaves with special techniques. When the fibers are ready and processed, they can be woven into a fabric. Its special properties are that it’s soft, breathable, and lightweight. Besides being biodegradable and sustainable, of course.
Milk fiber
Milk protein fibers have been around since the 30s, but they have been replaced by harmful fabrics like acrylic. But milk fiber proteins are gaining new relevance in the textile industry. They are a kind of synthetic fiber made using natural sources. The protein called casein found in milk constitutes the base of this material. The fabric made from it is soft and stretchy.
The importance of biofabrics in the fashion industry
If a revolution in the fashion industry ever happens, it will be through biofabrics. The fashion industry desperately needs sustainable materials that focus on environmental responsibility. Biofabrics could be the key to putting an end to the environmental disregard of the fashion industry. See, sustainability is not the mere sum of its particles. It stretches to the social, economic, and ethical entanglements of production and distribution, too. Research of sustainable materials is crucial for reducing the impact of harmful substances on the environment. Biodegradable textiles could also promote equity by addressing the issue of clothing waste. This could result in important social changes in developing countries. Biotextiles would cut health hazards for workers all over the world. Wouldn't it feel nice knowing someone’s health hasn't been put at risk while making your t-shirt?
To wrap up
Biologically sourced and designed materials are a fast-growing field of research. Those materials have great perspectives of becoming heroes in revolutionizing the textile industry. The need for shifting towards a more sustainable and ethical process is pressing. Biotechnology can bring the necessary innovation to the field.
For some, biofabrics may remain only a niche way of expression withheld for designers and aspiring researchers. Still, the potential they represent is undeniable. As concerns for the environment grow, the need for sustainable materials grows proportionately. The development of these fabrics answers this demand. They are there to show that a more equitable production and a more responsible fashion industry are possible. Let’s hope that vision and innovation continue to go further with social and environmental responsibility.
